American Rural Churches

My article and photos of rural Montana churches on the Great Plains appears in the spring 2022 issue of Range Magazine seen here.

My article and photos of rural churches in Montana appears here in the Spring 2022 issue of Range Magazine. The text of the article is below.

St. Wenceslaus Catholic Church in Danvers, Montana was built in 1916 and was named for the patron saint of Czechoslovakia. It is located at a train stop along the long-gone Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul Railroad.

Throughout the west are places most people have never heard of. They are tiny towns and train stops and quiet corners of the earth that are different in many ways, but often they do have one thing in common. A church.

Their churches there are small and quaint. They are often surrounded by grassland, or wheat, or trees, or a small cluster of dusty old buildings. They are seldom made of anything other than wood, and their design is every bit as spartan and plain as the landscape that surrounds them. But it is their simplicity and utilitarian design that makes them so beautiful.

These churches represent so much more than it may seem, not only to the men and women from Europe who first came to these parts, but also those few who remain, working the land, and intentionally or not, honoring the legacy of those who came before them.

From 1900 to 1920 the number of people living on the Great Plains more than tripled as homesteaders farmed plots ranging from 130 acres to over 250 acres in size. At that same time new railroad tracks were laid across the west and small towns popped up to not only support the farmers and ranchers in the region, but also to provide water, coal and supplies to steam locomotives that pushed west. And the churches, often before anything else, were the first structures built there.

Most of the churches in the rural parts of North Dakota, South Dakota, Kansas, Nebraska, Montana, Wyoming, and Nevada were Lutheran, Methodist and Roman Catholic. There were a handful of German churches and many Norwegian Lutheran churches, too. In many ways, these buildings represented the hopes and dreams of all the settlers who opened the west. And each church has many stories to tell.

Following the Great Depression, and with the start of World War II, many farms and ranches dried up as more and more people moved off the farm and into the cities to work in factories to support the war effort. At the same time diesel engines replaced the steam locomotives that needed to stop for water in tiny towns every 10 to 25 miles along the track. And when that happened, towns died, and congregations dwindled. But often the churches remain.

More than just a place to worship, churches are the hub of these rural western communities. They are where you are baptized and introduced to the world for the first time…and the last building you are in when you slip the surly bonds of earth. They are where you are married, where gather with your neighbors and friends, where you shelter from the storm, where you meet to organize after a local emergency, where you hold suppers to raise funds for your community, and where you meet and vote as you participate in American democracy. Rural and small-town churches are icons of the American west, and yet sadly many are in disrepair and fading away. God bless those that remain. And may they continue to be a touchstone for all that was once good and could be again.

Ever Heard of the Palouse?

NOTE: These are the photos and text I shared on my LinkedIn page in January 2022 that went viral. I never had a post on LinkedIn gather as much attention as this one did before.

Have you ever heard of the Palouse? It is one of the most beautiful rural landscapes in the United States. Perhaps, the world. It is located south of Spokane; Washington and it straddles the Washington/Idaho border. It's one of those places you visit and can't make a bad photograph. Here are some photos of mine from the Palouse region when it was a wee bit warmer outside. Hope you enjoy.

More Than a Gateway to Yellowstone

My article and photos of Livingston, Montana appeared here in the May 2017 issue of Montana Magazine. The content of the article is below.

My article and photos of Livingston, Montana appeared here in the May 2017 issue of Montana Magazine. The content of the article is below.

 

Given its proximity to nearby Bozeman it’s a wonder, really, Livingston exists at all. Where Bozeman has flourished in recent years with an influx of new inhabitants from nearby states and whose culture has evolved as a result, Livingston’s population has remained largely constant and maintained much of its traditional Montana flavor.

Built largely on a foundation of railroads, ranching, and recreation, Livingston is a popular waypoint for those visiting Yellowstone National Park close-by. But even if America’s first national park vanished and didn’t exist at all, Livingston’s landmarks, nightlife, and charm would stand on its own as an inviting destination for visitors from any state, or those from within Montana itself seeking for a fun weekend getaway.

A photo of a train in Livingston, Montana.

Like many Montana towns, Livingston owes much of its existence to the railroad. The Northern Pacific Railway first arrived in what is present-day Livingston in 1882. Soon after the transcontinental railroad began promoting Livingston as a destination for those wanting to visit the magical Yellowstone National Park. Railcars overflowing with visitors from the east soon arrived and the rest was history.

Although the clatter of trains is still the chorus of Livingston’s soundtrack, Amtrak suspended service to Livingston and the rest of southern Montana in 1979. And while the end of passenger service was a death knell for many cities along the North Coast Hiawatha’s route, the importance of this arterial railway to Livingston’s prosperity had been replaced many years earlier by the interstate highway system…and to a lesser extent, the Yellowstone River, which became sacred waters for fly fishing aficionados.

Livingston's railroad history is preserved at Livingston's Depot Center Museum. Located in the city's beautifully restored, and equally historic, railroad depot, the museum is at the top of the list of Montana's must-see museums. It is rich with exhibits to remind visitors of Livingston's past as a Northern Pacific Railroad hub. Open from Memorial Day to Labor Day, the Livingston Depot Center Museum is filled with exhibits that will thrill even casual rail buffs.

Livingston is also home to the Yellowstone Gateway Museum, which is packed with artifacts of regional history, and the International Fly Fishers Museum, which tells the story of one of Montana’s (and America’s) most popular game sports.

Of course, there is much more to see and do in Montana’s 11th largest city than museums. Livingston has one of the most vibrant and beautiful downtown scenes anywhere in the west. Old school neon signs and notable small town architecture offer an inviting backdrop for the city’s many restaurants, bars, shops, and galleries.

Like a fine bottle of whiskey, the historic Murray Hotel located at the intersection of Park Street and Second Street in downtown Livingston has improved with age. It was made even more popular recently by high-profile visits from American chef, author, and television personality Anthony Bourdain. But big city chefs didn’t put the Murray on the map. No, big shots have frequented this charming inn for many years. Honestly, you never know who you might bump into in the Murray’s lounge.

Yes, the Murray Hotel's 30 rooms are higher priced than what the chains in nearby Bozeman would typically charge, but if you are looking to spend a night in the lap of luxury and/or hole up with a loved one in one of Montana's more exciting downtowns, then you really can't go wrong with a stay at the Murray Hotel. Their luxurious and contemporary accommodations are the perfect respite for those who just spent a few days roughing it deep inside Yellowstone National Park. The Murray is the oasis you visit at the end of a long stay in the wilderness. And it is the reason you keep coming back for more.

Food and drink, of course, are woven into Livingston's culture, too. On the more pedestrian side of the menus is Mark's In and Out, which is a classic American burger joint located halfway between the Interstate and downtown Livingston on the city's main thoroughfare; West Park Street (exit 333 off of the Interstate). It is truly a throwback to another time. Try the pizza burger and fried mushrooms. And although it is not on the menu, be sure to ask for their signature Montana huckleberry shake. You will be happy you did.

Northern Pacific Beanery, Gil’s Goods, and Pinky's Café are also culinary must-stops while in Livingston. Each offers a diverse menu and foods that will please any palette.

Livingston also home to two craft breweries; Katabatic Brewing Company and Neptune's Brewery. And if you think about it, two really is a perfect number. Montana's craft breweries have a consumption limit of three pints per day per tasting room. So, when you reach your limit at one of Livingston's two craft breweries and still have a thirst for more locally made suds, all you need to do is saunter (slowly) over to Livingston's second craft brewhouse for more. Try the popular Sacajawaea Pale Ale at Neptune's Brewery (which also has some of the best sushi--believe it or not--in all of Montana) and the Strong Scotch Ale at Katabatic Brewing Company. Both will please the craft beer fan in you.

After an evening of enjoying Livingston's nightlife, a hearty breakfast rich with lipids will hit the spot at the Other Cafe. Don't let its modest name and façade fool you...their breakfast fare is among the best in town. Omelets, pancakes, biscuits and gravy...whatever you want; the Other Cafe has the calorie rich start to your day you need before you drive south and hike the trails in Yellowstone National Park.

Like every Montana city, Livingston comes to life in the summer with special events. Among the most popular are the Livingston Farmers Market, which is open to the public on Wednesdays from 4:30 to 7:30 PM across from the lagoon at the Miles Band Shell Park.

The city’s 4th of July Rodeo is also a busy time in town when saddle bronc riders, bull riders, and barrel racers compete for one of the biggest purses in the country. A two-day outdoor music festival dubbed Summerfest is also held in mid-July and features some of the region’s best music and dance. And during the first week in August Livingston comes alive again as locals gather to attend the Park County Fair, which is one of the finest county fairs in the state.

Livingston is also a sportsman's paradise, which is surely on the bucket list of every serious fly fisher in the world. But you have never fly fished before? Don't fret, you can’t swing a cat in Livingston without hitting an experienced fly-fishing guide. Many guides, such as those found at Sweetwater Fly Shop, Dan Bailey Fly Fishing, and Anderson’s Yellowstone Angler can set up even the least experienced rodman or woman with an experience they will never forget.

Many cities in the west spend millions of dollars to artificially recreate what Livingston has managed naturally. It is a beautiful town that reminds its visitors of Montana’s past, but it is still rich with enough contemporary pleasures to thoroughly entertain any generation today.

Colors of the American Farm: Perils of Agriculture

A photo of a red Holstein cow.

A red Holstein cow tied up at the Green County Fair in Monroe, Wisconsin.

NOTE: This is an article I wrote for the fall 2020 issue of Range Magazine. It included several photos of American agriculture, too.

Someone once said farmers are like gamblers. Every year they bet it all that their crops will succeed and the price at market will be enough to take care of their family and their operation. What if they don’t succeed? Well, they are literally betting the farm. And when you do that, bad things can happen.

According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, 90% of crop losses in the U.S. are because of extreme weather; something even the hardest working and most intelligent farmer cannot control. Record-breaking cold in January will kill winter wheat. Massive amounts of snow in February will strand herds of beef cattle. And lots of rain in April will flood fields and delay planting. Each of these instances are common in rural America. And when they do occur, farmers run the risk of losing their only paycheck. Mortgage payments are missed, equipment maintenance is delayed, college funds dry up, and money to buy the seeds and chemicals for next year’s crop all but vanishes. And then the people who WE rely on to put food on our tables suddenly find themselves having a hard time buying food themselves. Seriously.

In the past year or more American farmers and ranchers have faced tremendous obstacles to success. Extreme weather made it impossible to harvest some crops and plant new ones last year. While the President negotiated new tariffs with China, agricultural exports (and prices) declined. Then our rural producers of food faced down the same coronavirus disaster the rest of us experienced. But because the supply chains broke down many were forced to abandon their harvest in the field, dump their milk, and kill barns full of chickens, pigs and cattle that could not be butchered and or make their way to market. Most gamblers by then would have hung it up. And if the farmers and ranchers did, who could blame them. But the American farmer and rancher is stronger than that.

Those that survived work hard under the faith that “next year will be better.” Even if it is not always true. There is no guarantee of that, but that doesn’t mean we shouldn’t appreciate their hard work and buy American made agricultural products when we can. America’s agricultural industry has had it rough. Let’s hope they are rewarded for their perseverance one of these years.